How to care for Your
Furniture
While nothing lasts forever, with proper maintenance your new
finish
will last a long
time.
Acrylic
Use only a very soft damp cloth when cleaning acrylic surfaces. It is possible
to scratch acrylic, so
NEVER use any scouring compounds or chemical cleaners such as Windex or other glass cleaners (even
if
they are environmentally friendly, organic
or
non-scented). Should anything ever stick
to an acrylic surface (such as an adhesive
label or gummy substance) do not use any type of solvent. A mild soap
a
nd
water combination will take care of most cleaning needs, although there are numerous products
on
the market to help
r
epair any small
scratches your piece may get.
Never use the same cloth that you clean other household items with – it can retain dirt, grit, and chemical residues that
may
harm your acrylic items. We recommend using a new or separate cloth for
yo
ur
acrylic care.
Wood
Wood veneer is a thin sheet of natural wood that covers the surface
of
some types of furniture. It provides
the look of hardwood furniture without the high cost. The durability of wood veneer varies
depending on the type of wood it's made from, and it requires gentle care to preserve the finish. Clean it
with mild products and avoid the use of wax or oil-based polishes to prevent buildup. Keep wood
ve
neer furniture out of direct sunlight to prevent fading and use beverage coasters to prevent water damage.
How to clean your wood
veneer finish:
Step 1: Dampen a cotton or microfiber cloth with water and wring it out. Wipe the wood veneer,
following
the
direction of the wood grain, to remove any light dust, debris or residue. Wipe the veneer
with a dry cotton or microfiber cloth to dry it.
Step 2: Remove tough dirt or residue from wood veneer with a mixture of 1 teaspoon of oil soap or
mild
soap flakes with 2 cups of warm water. Dip a cotton or microfiber cloth into the solution and wring it
o
ut.
Wi
pe the wood veneer in small sections to clean it thoroughly.
Step 3: Rinse the cloth thoroughly with water and wring it out. Wipe the wood veneer with the cloth to
remove any soap residue. Dry
the wood veneer with a clean, dry cloth.
Lacquer
Lacquer is a
delicate finish that with proper care will last a long
time. Lacquer and polyester finishes is
best
maintained by simple dusting with a slightly dampened rag (using only very soft, clean cloths and
wiping with light pressure). Never immerse in water. Also, do not use
commercial products such as
Pledge or Endust, which may permanently
ruin
the
lacquer finish.
To keep lacquer finish looking pristine,
spills must be
cleaned as soon
as
they happen with a clean soft cloth. Plastic
and
rubber surfaces can leave etchings into lacquer finishes. This is most likely with newer finishes, but sometimes happens with fully cured finishes as well. For this reason we recommend that telephones, televisions, radios, plastic place mats, plastic
cups
and plastic tablecloths, etc.
be
kept from
long-term contact with any finish. It is important to protect your lacquer finish from scratches by
always using felt pads under all accessories. We also recommend not leaving anything
heavy, on top of your newly finished furniture for extended time during at least the first 30 days. Your new finish is at 85% of its total strength as delivered, but will continue to cure and strengthen during that time. This doesn’t mean you can’t use you’re your table immediately
after delivery,
but
clear the table afterwards.
Remember, anything harder than your
finish (Glass, ceramic, or
metal) will scratch it,
e
specially
during the first month. It is also
advisable avoiding exposure to direct sunlight, extremes of temperature and humidity, and abrasion. Exposure to direct light discolors
the surface and
dulls the lacquer’s sheen.
Too many
finishes are ruined by
over
applying polish, wax, and oil. We do not recommend using any oil to
clean
your
lacquer
or
wood finish.
To remove smudges and
fingerprints,
first
dust
using
the
damp/dry cloths as above. If heavier cleaning is necessary, dampen your cloth with a small amount of mild soap solution and make sure you remove any residues with a soft damp cloth immediately after.
If lacquer objects require cleaning or repair
beyond these
basic steps, contact an experienced lacquer specialist.
Leather and Hide
Leather surfaces are just like beautiful, delicate skin. Leather must be carefully cleansed before it can
be
properly conditioned.
As
leather ages, it loses essential protector infused into the leather during the
manufacturing process. That leaves the leather susceptible to dirt, oils, and UV damage. To keep leather looking and feeling its best, you must first clean it and then replace the lost moisture
and protection.
Easy steps to Proper Leather Care
Step 1: The basic care routine for leather upholstery is simply wiping the furniture down with a dry cotton cloth.
This will remove dust from the leather and keep it looking its best.
Step 2: Vacuum dust and debris from the furniture's crevices. Just as with any other piece of
upholstered furniture, the best way to remove the dust and debris that gradually builds up in crevices
and
under cushions is by using your vacuum's hose attachment. No special precautions are necessary
when vacuuming leather furniture.
Step 3: Apply a leather conditioner regularly.
The
most notable difference between caring
for leather versus fabric upholstery is the need to condition the leather. Leather conditioners are products that
have
a creamy consistency and are designed to be buffed into the leather. Conditioning the leather regularly keeps it from drying out and developing cracks. Leather conditioner
can
be purchased from many general
stores and is
also
available at auto parts stores, where it is sold
for conditioning leather car interiors.
Application guidelines will vary from product to product. In general, you should expect to condition
your
leather furniture once every 6 to 12
months.
Step 4: Clean spills immediately with a dry cloth.
W
hen
anything is spilled onto the leather upholstery, wipe it away as soon as possible.
Use a dry cloth or sponge to absorb as
m
uch of the spilled liquid as possible, only resorting to a moistened cloth if absolutely necessary.
Use as little water as possible to
clean the spill, and wipe the area dry afterwards.
Step 5: Avoid soaking
the leather in water or soap. Unlike fabric upholsteries, leather should never be
cleaned by prolonged soaking in soap or water.
Doing this can damage the leather even more than the
initial stain you are trying to remove.
Tips to avoid Leather damage
Tip 1: Avoid placing leather furniture in direct sunlight. Virtually nothing is safe for long in
the
light and heat of the sun. Remember sunlight damages leather,
think of leather just like your skin, only without the ability to repair itself. Try to keep leather furniture away from direct sunlight or when that isn’t possible, condition exposed areas more often. Avoid extreme temperatures that would cause leather
to
dry and crack.
If
you're too cold or too hot in a room, so is the leather. Don't place leather next to air
conditioners or radiators.
Tip 2: Buff small scratches in the leather with a
micro
fiber cloth. Because leather is made from animal
hide, it can occasionally
dry
out and develop small cracks and scratches. These scratches can be coaxed into hiding themselves, however. All you need to do is buff them gently with a microfiber cloth until their appearance fades.
Tip 3: Like all furniture, leather is of course prone to irreparable damage
from chewing and scratching by pets.
This effect is best minimized by providing pets with chew toys, scratching posts, and
other
appropriate outlets for their chewing
and scratching.
Tip 4: Place your leather furniture at a fair distance from flaming heat and sharp edges. Be careful
with
objects with sharp edges inside your pockets such as keys and pocket knives.
Use care when smoking; accidents may happen leaving cigarette burns on your sofa.
Tip 5: Avoid using any cleaning products
not
designed for leather. Detergents, solvents, all-purpose
cleaning sprays, ammonia, bleach, and furniture polish can all be harmful to leather furniture. Do not apply
these products in an attempt to clean the furniture or remove stains. Rely on dry towels or sponges as much as possible.
Do not use classic Pledge or any other dusting spray on your leather furniture. Over time you will create a build up that will be a nightmare to remove without damaging the leather.
Tip 6: Do not use oils or varnishes on leather.
Tip 7: Do not use soap on leather. If soap must be used to remove a stain, try a very mild one, look for a "Saddle Soap". Then wipe the area several times with a barely damp rag, dry, and then condition. Soap
breaks down the oils that keep the leather supple.
Tip 8: Do not use an
excessive amount of water on leather
furniture. This may create a stain larger than
the
original problem.
Tip 9: Do not use solvents such as rubbing alcohol on leather furniture. If rubbing alcohol is applied
with a q-tip to remove ball point
pen marks, be sure to condition the area properly as soon as possible.
Tip 10: Sweat, hair oil, and skin care products like benzoyl peroxide are not good for leather. Use a pillow instead of the arm when lying down to watch TV.
Tip 11: Leather stretches out,
but not
back: If you start to overfill a wallet, it will never really return to
i
ts
former taut self. If you stretch a leather bag when wet or very humid, it will move even faster. Just
learn to carry the right amount, and this takes care of itself. The same happens with your leather sofa;
avoid
placing a lot of weight
on
a
spot as it will leave creases in the leather.
Tip 12: Dark jeans and other clothes
may stain your white or light color leather. Color transfer stains
can
also be caused by hair dyes, newspapers and magazines. Avoid direct contact of stain sources
with
your
leather sofa. If a stain occurs try to clean it immediately by following the leather cleaning care steps above.
Stainless Steel
Stainless
steel does
not readily corrode, rust or stain with water as ordinary steel
does, but despite the name it is not fully stain-proof, most notably under low oxygen, high salinity, or poor circulation environments. We recommend buying Stainless Steel Cleaner and following the instructions for any cleaning and polishing needs you have.
Stone
Finishes: There are three primary
stone finishes:
1. A polished
finish
has a glossy surface that
reflects light
and
emphasizes the color
and markings
of the material.
2. A honed finish is a satin smooth surface with relatively little reflection of light. Generally, a
honed finish is preferred for floors, stair treads, thresholds,
and
other locations where heavy traffic will wear off the polished
finish.
A honed finish may also be used
on
furniture tops
and
other surfaces.
3. A flamed finish is a rough textured surface
Marble
Clean marble with a clean, slightly damp cloth and then dry with a soft towel. Avoid bleach,
acidic cleaners or any abrasive household cleaners with marble, as etching and dullness may occur. Never leave a chemical, citric or acidic item or substance on the marble and use felt pads or runners to
prevent items from scratching the surface.
Granite
Clean with a clean, damp cloth and use a small
amount of soapy water for heavy residue or debris.
Avoid
ammonia, bleach or any
cleaning products with solvents or caustics, as this will remove the sealant.
Outdoor Furniture
Our quality synthetic
wicker strands
have a UV proofing that helps
it
resist fading, when combined with quality powder coated aluminum frame and outdoor fabrics furniture will keep its color far longer than traditional
outdoor furniture. In
order to keep you furniture in the best condition some maintenance is required.
How to clean your outdoor furniture:
Step 1: Rinse off the synthetic wicker on a regular basis. The air is full of dirt, dust and grit, here in
South Florida it is
also
full of salt; all of these items will over time cause issues to anything left outside.
You
do
not need any special soaps, just a quick
rinse. Rain is also
full
of pollutants that can harm your furniture, just because it
rained doesn't mean the furniture is clean.
Step 2: If you will be away for an extended period of time clean and store the items to
preserve
their lifespan.
Step 3: Our Outdoor Fabric does not promote mildew growth, however, mildew may grow on dirt and other foreign substances
that are not removed from the fabric. We
recommend washing your outdoor
cushion covers
on a semi regular basis to improve the look
and
life of the pieces.
Tip 1: Machine wash in cold water. Depending on wash load size, use recommended amounts of mild laundry
detergent on a gentle setting.
Tip 2: Do Not put in the dryer.
Tip 3: Do Not Dry
Clean.
Tip 4: When you have removed and washed the covers of the pillows, also rinse the pillows themselves and let
air
dry.
Rugs
Cowhide
Care
& C
leaning:
Vacuum regularly to remove dust as with any regular rug. If a stain should occur it can be removed by soft
brushing and rubbing the grain of the hair with mild soap
and
water.
We recommend you do not place your hide under direct
sun light and to rotate your hide every 3
months in high traffic areas.
Shag
Care
& C
leaning:
Step 1: Vacuum regularly to remove dust and dirt.
Step 2: Spot Removal is one of the most crucial areas of rug maintenance, and acting quickly when anything is spilled or dropped makes cleaning easier.
Tip 1: Immediately blot spills with paper towels or a clean cloth and remove any solids.
Tip 2: Pretest any cleaning agent in a small unobtrusive area.
Tip 3: Work inward from the spot to the center to prevent spreading.
Tip 4: Wait a few minutes for the cleaning agent to work on the spot. Follow recommended
directions of
the
cleaner you used.
Tip 5: After the cleaning agent has removed the spot, blot excess moisture with paper towels or a clean cloth.
Tip 6: Rinse with clean water and blot excess moisture with paper
towels or a clean cloth.
Stain Treatment
C
hart
Spot
|
Step 1
|
Step 2
|
Step 3
|
Alcoholic Drink
|
1
|
2
|
-
|
Blood
|
1
|
2
|
-
|
Butter
|
3
|
2
|
-
|
Candle Wax
|
6
|
4
|
-
|
Gum
|
4
|
3
|
-
|
Coffee
|
1
|
2
|
3
|
Soda
|
1
|
2
|
-
|
Cream
|
2
|
3
|
-
|
Floor Wax
|
3
|
2
|
-
|
Gravy & Sauce
|
5
|
2
|
3
|
Ink (fountain pen)
|
1
|
2
|
-
|
Ink (ball Point)
|
4
|
7
|
2
|
Lipstick
|
3
|
2
|
-
|
Milk
|
5
|
3
|
2
|
Nail Polish
|
6
|
3
|
-
|
Oil & Grease
|
3
|
2
|
-
|
Latex Paint
|
1
|
2
|
3
|
Oil Paint
|
9
|
3
|
2
|
Rust
|
3
|
2
|
8
|
Salad Dressing
|
2
|
3
|
-
|
Shoe Polish
|
3
|
2
|
-
|
Tar
|
3
|
-
|
-
|
Urine (fresh)
|
1
|
2
|
-
|
Urine (old)
|
1
|
2
|
10
|
Wine
|
9
|
1
|
2
|
|
For each Stain listed
to
the right, apply
the
steps below.
1. Add cold
water and blot
2. Detergent
Solution or WoolClean Dry©
3. Mineral Spirits
or
Turpentine
4. Chill with aerosol Freezing Spray
or Ice in a bag; follow
by
picking gum out
5. Warm Water
6. Nail Polish remover
7. Isopropyl Alcohol
8. Rust Remover
9. Absorbent Powder (i.e. Salt, talc...)
10 Absorbent cleaner
|
|
|
|